Loliondo December 2003-12-17

I was looking forward to going back out to Loliondo and even the thought of the long too often travel journey out from Arusha was not enough to dampen my spirits as I set off. The new headphones I bought on my way back from the USA helped while away the tedious trip that I must have done more than two hundred times. The scenery is stunning, but I must always rush to get to camp in time to welcome the clients with the cold champagne.

I was concerned about the lack of rain and thought it may be a difficult safari if the Wildlife Explorer concession was still as dry as the rest of the country. The short rains have not really arrived, however parts of Loliondo have had isolated thunder showers and while we were there it threatened to rain every day. Huge tropical thunderstorms rolled across the western horizon, a flashing night light show. I should not have worried, as it turned out there was plenty of game to keep us entertained.

We woke before dawn and met around the fire for a light breakfast and steaming coffee. Our first walk was up and along the ridge on the Serengeti National Park boundary. Although dry the view is spectacular and the cool breeze was refreshing and welcome. Game was abundant as far as the eye could see. I don’t think I have ever seen so many hartebeest, many of which were accompanied by small calves. On the hill we only got a fleeting look at a mountain reedbuck but walked into herds of impala, zebra and eland.

That afternoon I decided to drive down to the river and see what we could find. About half way along the river there is an open area where the cattle herders have dug out some of the less saline springs to water their cattle. The area is beautiful, green and open. As we drove on the track we found the carcass of a fully-grown bull Giraffe. I stopped to look around for clues as to what had happened. A puzzling contradictory set of clues emerged at first but I settled on a very large lion having done the dead as the large spaced teeth puncture wounds on the neck just bellow the bottom jaw indicated. However the back skin had been neatly cut away with a knife and the back strap filet cleanly removed. Also the tendon from the front leg had been removed. This is the preferred gut used on local bows as it is strong pliable and dose not stretch. Some one had then hacked into the shinbone with a panga looking for the marrow that is eaten raw on the spot.

I was just starting to become concerned at the lack of vultures, indicating the presence of a large predator to scare them away, when Cory (client) looked into the stomach cavity and remarked that there was a bird in there.

On closer inspection we discovered that there was indeed a white backed vulture in the chest cavity. It had forced its head greedily between the ribs of the Giraffe to reach some morsel and then promptly become stuck. At first I thought it had left this planet but when I lifted a flap of thick dried skin to reveal the ugly head I notices it appeared to be breathing very shallowly. I realized here was a chance to play the part of true bush hero and release this scavenger from its putrid tomb. I slid my razor sharp hunting knife from its sheath and with John (my Maasai assistant) peering in from bellow to make sure I did not decapitate the intended helpless object of my compassion I cut away some of the incredibly thick tough hide. This was so that I could grab the horrible wrinkled head and force it through the widest gap between the offending ribs. The vulture hissed and was not very pleased with this, but once free collapsed where it was. This was no fun and I needed to see the results of my daring do first hand to confirm my status as protector of the beneficiary of others doom. I lent in to the chest cavity and grabbed a wing and then another, which I immediately led go, as the dazed bird turned and snapped gratefully at my hand with its razor beak. Now it had no choice but freedom and bounced of down the hill attempting to launch but only swooping down the slope barely avoiding a whistling thorn on the way. The last we saw of it, it was sitting in a dazed state being eyed by an obviously desperate jackal.

Vultures have evolved the long neck to enable them to reach between the skin and bone of a carcass, as they are not powerful enough to tear open the skin. I have also heard tell of a hyena that perished as it was trapped in the same way in an elephant carcass.

I spent the rest of the day pretending not to notice the stench of rotting Giraffe flesh wafting up from my hands.

Further on we found two mature buffalo bulls that I drove up on fast, something I like to do once in a while to demonstrate their bulk and strength as the speed away. When you have seen a good sized buffalo run off at fifteen yards you will never look at them with that dazed and disinterested expression again.

I was also pleased to see that the reedbuck, who had dispersed for the rains last season where back bunched all along the river as they are a graceful sight bounding off as we walk the river, which we did the following morning. We found paw prints of one of the huge male lion that live along the river but unfortunately were unable to track him down. We did catch a fleeting glance of an enormous tom leopard as it glided fluidly over the ground with incredible speed and disappeared into a dry riverbed. On the third day we walked along another hill, and stalked a herd of impala getting to within ten yards. Again we were looking for lion but saw buffalo, giraffe, hartebeest, cheetah and more.

All in all, an eventful safari, with good company. The highlight was a good look at an alert but curious and shifty leopardess. She was just as interested in us as we were in her.

The drive back, the thrill I get from the incredible isolation and freedom, alone on the plains in immense space of huge rolling vistas bordered by the Ngorongoro blue highlands was further romanticised by Sebelius and others. The wet season and migration are back.